Kashmiri cuisine is built around slow cooking, aromatic spices and a deep tradition of hospitality. At its heart is the Wazwan — a ceremonial multi-course banquet considered an art form. Here's a taste of what to order.

The Wazwan feast

The Wazwan is a royal multi-course meal — traditionally up to 36 dishes — prepared by master chefs called 'wazas' and served at weddings and celebrations. Guests share from a large copper platter called a 'trami'. It's a celebration of community as much as food.

Dishes you must try

Even outside a full Wazwan, these signatures appear on most Kashmiri menus:

  • Rogan Josh — aromatic lamb in a red, fennel-and-chilli gravy
  • Rista — minced-meat balls in a rich red sauce
  • Gushtaba — velvety meatballs in yoghurt gravy, the 'dish of kings'
  • Dum Aloo — baby potatoes in a spiced yoghurt curry (a vegetarian favourite)
  • Haakh — the everyday Kashmiri collard greens
  • Modur Pulav — a sweet, saffron-scented rice

Kahwa & the tea culture

No Kashmiri meal is complete without kahwa — green tea brewed with saffron, cardamom, cinnamon and almonds. Served from an ornate samovar, it's the warm, fragrant note that defines Kashmiri hospitality.

Key Takeaways

  • Wazwan is a shared, ceremonial feast — go hungry and go with others.
  • Vegetarians have great options: Dum Aloo, Haakh, Nadru (lotus stem) and Modur Pulav.
  • Finish with kahwa — saffron-almond green tea served from a samovar.